Herbal Cosmetics
An example of old precepts making a come back is in the use of cosmetics. Now the cosmetic industry is getting more and more ‘herbal’ and is reducing use of lab produced synthetic chemicals. Ayurveda had always advocated removing the root cause of skin’s ill health more than using superficial cosmetics.
Cosmetics have been used since the stone – age. It probably started with the primitive men painting their bodies as a part of hunting ritual or war with other tribes.Nilevalley civilisation has evidence that decorating the face and body with aromatics & colour has become a sophisticated art by 5000 B.C.
Of course, history of cosmetics will not be complete without the mention of ’Cleopatra’, (68 – 30 B.C.) Queen ofEgypt, daughter of Ptolemy Auletes, king ofEgyptfamous for her beauty and charm. She was a connoisseur of cosmetic arts. With her knowledge she wrote treatises on the art of make-up. It is said that she took bath in a tub filled with donkey’s milk and used cosmetics that were much a head of her time. It is said that ‘Sakuntala’ heroine of kalidasa’s epic “Sakuntala”, was using an aromatic herbal face pack that was so fragrant that it attracted bees. Nourjehan, the mughal queen, it is said, was the first person to extract “Attar” from Roses. We have our Ellora andAjantacaves, with their famous painting, proving that not only women but men also used cosmetics. A famous painting ofAjanta, depicts a woman doing her make-up with a mirror in the hand. TheAjantaand Ellora caves date from 200 BC to 650 AD. Ancient Indian scriptures make references of herbal cosmetics such as Anjana, Tilaka etc.
Indians were familiar with turmeric, saffron, Agaru, green chorophyll, indigo blue, neem green etc. Today Ayurvedic cosmetics are in great demand.
Ayurvedic Conception of Cosmetics
There is a saying that beauty is only skin deep. In Ayurveda, inner and outer beauty are closely related. If an individual is healthy and happy, his / her beauty enhances. Ayurveda advocates detoxification as a first step. Digestive power is enhanced.
Cosmetics are used externally along with internal cleansing. Some preliminary recommendations are
- Do not curb natural urges like urination, bowel movements, tears, hunger, sleep etc.
- Avoid Constipation. It reduces skin glow.
- Keep your self hydrated. Drink plenty of water
- Do not miss your ‘beauty’ sleep. Early to bed and early to rise makes you beautiful and reduces skin – fatigue.
- Regular oil massage is essential. Massages or head baths with oil, improve complexion, make the skin supple.
- Acharya Susruta advises never to share your cosmetics and dresses with others, to avoid infection.
- Include fruits, fresh vegetables and milk in your diet. Avoid fried items.
For a sound sleep:
- Exercise during the day reduces strees by controlling flow of adrenalin. It paves the way for a sound sleep in the night.
- Gargle with water before going to bed.
- Rub the inner soles of your feet with a few drops of gingeely oil or castor oil. Warm oil is preferable. Brahmi oil also could be used.
- If you have the habit of drinking milk before retiring for the night, walk a few paces back and forth after consuming the milk. If the milk is spiced, well and good. Boil 1/2 a cup of cow’s milk, reduce heat, add 1/2 teaspoon of Nutmeg (freshly powdered). Stir well and consume. Soy milk with cinnamon, honey can also be consumed.
- Do mild exercises before going to bed.
- Take a luke – warm bath. Herbs added to the bathing water, help to promote a peaceful sleep. Herbal essential oils like chamomile, lavender, marjoram, sandal wood, rose are good. Consult your Ayurvedic physician.
- Drinking herbal teas may also help. Soporific herbs like bergamot, chamomile, passion flower, poppy seed, valerian (Jhadamanshi), bringaraj, fennel aniseed, dill etc could be used.
- Go to bed at the same time every day and get up in the morning at the same time everyday. Getting up at the same time everyday is more important.
Bath
Bathing, at the least, once in a day is essential for skin is an organ of excretion and dead cells, sweat residues collected over the skin have to be cleaned regularly. Unpleasant odours develop with bacterial decomposition of perspiration on the skin. It is advisable to take bath twice a day, especially in summer.
Oil massage adds glow and health to the skin. Acharya susruta says the oil rubbed over the over the skin of the body is absorbed in 25 seconds! He further says that oil massages relives the body and mind, of fatigue. Oil massage / oil bath, called Abhyanga is Ayurveda, should be done atleast once a week, on Saturdays for men and on Fridays for women. Daily oil can be applied lightly over the body before bath.
Persons who can afford, can use Ayurvedic medicated oils like sandal oil.
It is preferable to use an Ayurvedic or Natural soap which are now easily available. Avoid using soap on certain exposed mucous membranes of the body ( anus, genitals, nipples). Instead of soap, Besan (gram flour) combinations of flours like green gram flour, chick pea flour, lentil flour, oatmeal flour, barley flour, can be tried with milk and a pinch of Turmeric. Turmeric is traditionally being used by Indian women, educated or uneducated as it is a purifying and healing substance.
Dry and powder, Lodhra bark, Bark of Pomegranate tree, Lotus petals, Neem leaves. Use this powder for taking bath. This removes bad odour from the skin.
Sun Bathing
Exposure to early morning sun, provides the required ‘sun shine’ vitamin ‘D’ to the body. It is to be done in moderation. Half an hour exposure is sufficient. According to Ayurveda, periodic peeling of the skin takes place once in 21 days. There are separate chapters in ‘Kama Sutra’ and in Treatises on Ayurveda for cosmetics – called
“Subha kankarnam”. The objectives out lined in these chapters are
- Radiant beauty and glowing face
- Younger looks
- Prevention of effects of aging on skin
The benefits of Ayurvedic cosmetics are
- Safe, gentle and Natural
- Easy to use
- Free from synthetic chemical and hence no adverse reaction.
- No animal testing is required
We have already said that Ayurveda advises first detoxification,
enhancement of digestive power and restoration of body health as prelude to beauty care. After this, the following are recommended daily or twice or thrice a week:
1. Cleansing:
- Use a natural soap for bathing – Refer to the item ‘Bathgiven earlier
- Use a basic herbal cleansing powder which should be mixed with a liquid. This liquid can be altered to suit your skin.
For dry skin
Use powders of Ashwagandha, citrus peel powder, haritaki, fenugreek, shatavari, Tulsi etc.
Liquids – fresh milk, cream or aloe vera juice.
To be mixed with are
Oil based cleanser for dry skin:-
- Use sesame oil as a base oil, with any one of the following essential oil combinations
- Rose or Sandal wood oil + Jasmine
- Cedar + Sandal wood + rose
- Sandal wood + Rose
For oily skin
Use amla, brahmi, fenugreek, lotus seed, manjistha, neem, white sandal wood -
liquid to be used are lemon juice or curd
oil based cleanser are:-
Are Jojaba oil as base oil mixed with the following essential oil combinations.
- Lemon + cypress
- Bergamot + cypress + Juniper.
For older, mature skin:-
Dry powders – aloe, Ashwagandha, Citrus peel, Haritaki, Neem, Rose.
Liquid to be mixed with – Spring water or milk.
Oil based cleansers – Base oil – Sesame or Jojiba
Essential oil to be combined with Lavender + tea tree oil
Bergamont + lemon.
Tips for using the above cleansers
- While using these powders mixed with liquids, apply these over the skin like a cream or a fine scrub. Leave for at least 20 minutes.
- Do not use soap on your face.
- Oil based cleansers should be of the below given quantity of combinations 5 parts of Base oil + 20 drops of essential oil per 2 ounces of base oil.
Toning
A toner removes the residues of all previous applications. It tones up the skin and makes it taut. Rose water is a good toner for normal and dry skin. For oily skin, Tulasi water with fennel etc is good.
Pat your face with Tomato pulp or cut a tomato into half and rub it over your face. Leave for an hour and wash off. Do this every day to tone up the skin.
Moisturisers
Many persons do not realise the importance of moisturisers. Many think that moisturisers should not be used for oily skins. Moisturisers is essential for all types of skins especially in winter, when the cold winds rob the oil off the face. Moisturisers should be applied after every washing to help rejuvenate skins.
For normal skin – the best moisturiser is – Almond or Jojoba oil
For dry skin the best moisturiser is – Sesame oil
For oily skin the best moisturiser is – Jojoba oil
For old, mature skin the best moisturiser is – Ghee or rice bran oil.
Warm 3 ounces of the oil warm separately 2 tables spoons of Aloe vera and 2 ounces of rose water. Mix all the ingredients thoroughly.
Moisturisers can be used twice daily.
General Facial scrubs
- Dry lemon or orange peels and powder to a fine form. Mix with milk, honey or lemon juice and apply evenly on skin. Keep for an hour and wash off. Try this once or twice a week.
- Mix juice of a lemon with Barley flour and milk to form a thick paste. Apply this paste daily to the face, neck hands etc and wash off after 15 miniutes. This facial is an effective way to attain a beautiful skin.
- Boil neem leaves in water and use this water daily to wash your face arms and neck.
- The paste of Fenugreek seeds blended with boiled milk and applied over the face and arms keeps the skin soft and smooth.
- A teaspoon of turmeric powder mixed with cream, sandal powder,Bengalgram flour and made into a paste and applied once a day about half an hour before bath is an excellent beauty aid.
- Dry Kamala (Ambal) flower (Nelumbium speciosum), Alli flower (Nymphaea pubences), Nagakeshara (Messua ferrea – siru Nagappoo in Tanil) in shade and powder. Add honey and ghee. Apply this paste lightly, keep for an hour on two then wash off with warm water. Skin color and softness improve.
- Powder Red sandal wood, Manjiti (Manjhista – Rubia Cordifolia – Indian madder), Lodhra bark (Symplocos Racemosa), Kustha (Tamil – Goshtam, Saussurea lappa) paste Banyan tree bark and massoor dhal. Mix the powder with water and apply on face and neck. Face become favier.
For acne, pimples
- Mere external application of herbs may not help to completely cure acne. Better results can be obtained by combining external application with internal medicines.
- Periodic ‘detoxification’ may be necessary in acute cases of acne.
- Make a paste by blending Muldani mutti (Fuller’s earth) and rose water and apply on the face for 15 to 20 minutes. Rinse off with warm water.
- Other combination pastes for treating pimples -
a) Nut meg ground to fine paste with water and applied on pimples
b) Sandal wood rubbed on a clean stone produces the powder which is mixed with rose water and applied on pimples.
c) Application sandal wood oil + double the quantity of mustard oil
d) Powder of Sandal wood + Vettiver
e) Powder of Lodhra + Coriander (Lodhra is Symplocos racemosus)
f) Face pack made of Sandal powder + Red sandal wood powder + Vacha (Acorus calamus)
g) Application of paste of 5 gm cumin seeds (Jeera). Leave for an hour
h) Powder of Dry leaves of Thulasi + water. Leave for an hour. Do this daily.
i) Gram flour + turmeric powder + crushed neem leaves + milk. Apply this paste & leave for 30 minutes. Wash off with Sikakai/
j) Juice of mint leaves applied every night
k) Take 1/2 cup Aloe – vera juice internally, twice a day.
l) Lodhra bark, Coriander seeds and Vasambu (Vacha – Acorus Calamus) are to be ground to a fine powder and applied on the face, for pimples.
- Avoid constipation.
Anti aging herbal formulations
Facial masks are best for improving health and appearance of the facial skin. Masks tone up the skin and make it look younger. Masks should be chosen according to one’s individual skin type and requirements. General tips before using facial mask are
- Clean the skin thoroughly before applying the mask.
- Apply the mask paste evenly on the face. Leave out lips, the region around eyes.
- Leave the mask on the face for atleast half-an-hour. Remove it with plenty of water. Some masks are “peel off” types.
- Clay is the best face mask as it absorbs dirt and toxins even from deep places of the skin. It also contains minerals vital to healthy skin.
Mask for all skin types:-
Powder of almond, sandal wood mixed with egg white, honey and curd, and made into a paste is a good mask for tightening the facial pores. Persons with acne should not use this mask.
For oily, acne – problem skin, use a mask made of extracts of cloves, eucalyptus and sandalwood. Or mix honey with egg white, a teaspoon of lemon juice and muldani mutti. Apply this paste on the face and remove after half-an-our.
For dryskin:
The facial mask for dry, old looking skin is honey mixed with eggwhite and cream or milk powder.
Other receipes / procedures
- Steaming your face thoroughly helps opening up the pores and cleansing of the skin. Instead of boiling ordinary water for steaming, you can use milk or herbal decoction for steaming.
- Applying paste of pepper mint leaves or honey. Coconut milk or coconut oil daily is also helpful.
Fruit and vegetable face packs:
For normal skin use mashed fruits like banana, grape, peach. For dry skin, Apple Banana, Carrot, Melon are suitable. For oily skin, use Lemon, Cucumber, Tomato. For other old, blemished skin type, use Lemon, Apple, Cabbage, Tomato or Grape.
For scars, acne marks on the face
Fresh turmeric, honey and red sandal wood powder are beneficial for removing facial scars due to acne, small pox etc. Ready made Ayurvedic oils like Amruhadhy oil or manjishtathy oil are available and these can be use for face massage. After wards try these formulations:-
- Soak a handful of raisins in water overnight. Remove the seeds, make into a fine paste and apply on face.
- Prepare a paste of turmeric with milk and honey and apply on face.
Food for the skin
Ayurveda emphasizes that a balanced diet, healthy digestion and proper elimination of ‘Ama’ (body wastes) are important for a glowing skin. It recommends different type of food for different types of skin – tabled below:
Box
Type of skin category
- Vata
- Pitta
- Kapha
Skin attributes for identification
Skin cold to touch, dry and their, fine pored, prone to dullness and wrinkles, darker complexion.
Skin warm to touch, delicate skin prone to premature wrinkles, reddish, sensitive to heat and sun.
Skin cool to touch but warm hands and feet. Pale, white toned skin, oily, thick, moist, tendency towards large pores, prone to clogged pores, toxic build up.
Suitable foods
A little more of fats like ghee and oil may be included in the diet. Moderate amout of spices like ginger, black pepper, turmeric. Should drink warm water.
Avoid hot, spicy foods. Cooling spices like fennel, licorice are beneficial. Should drink water cooled to room temperate. Gulkand is good for pitta types.
Fresh ginger mixed with lime juice taken before food helps to enhance digestion in kapha type persons. Kapha skin benefits from cooked spices like pepper, ginger and turmeric. Drinking hot water is good for kapha types.
Foods good for all types of skin
Green leafy vegetables (especially carrots), spices like Cumin and Coriander, Juicy fresh fruits, Legumes, Honey, Saffron, Clove, Garlic etc.
Foods to avoid are
Chillies, Tamarind, Meats of Pork, Prawn andBuffalo, Vinegar, Yeast etc.
